Gen X No Kids Guide to Fuerteventura
- GenXinks
- Jul 8, 2023
- 12 min read
Fuerteventura, the second largest of the Canary Islands after Tenerife, has been one of my favourite holiday destinations for just over 20 years.
Although popular with families, particularly during school holidays, being less well-known than Tenerife, Gran Canaria and Lanzarote, I find Fuerteventura to be less family-centric than the other Canary Islands, especially when you get away from the main resorts. The four-hour flight from the UK also tends to put off very young families, who are more inclined to visit the nearer Balearic islands, which have a similar climate but just over half the flight time.
So here is my GenX No Kids Guide to Fuerteventura: things to do and see on the island and how to get the most out of your trip, with links to each location on Google maps and my own personal rating.
Gen X No Kids Guide to Fuerteventura
If you're in a hurry, please feel free to skip to the parts that interest you most:
Accommodation
I always recommend booking self-catering accommodation, ideally in an area populated primarily by locals. This is the best way to avoid the "Brits abroad" crowd and over-inflated tourist prices, as well as experience the most authentic Canarian culture the island has to offer.
If you can, look for independent villa owners and avoid the large holiday companies and rental sites, like Solmar Villas, Vrbo (formerly Home Away), Villa Plus, Jet2, etc. Those sites can offer some protection, in case something goes wrong, but a decent travel insurance policy should cover most eventualities and because the big agencies charge such a high commission, you'll probably find the best villas that don't need to advertise and get a better deal by going independent. Being "mature" (i.e. over 30), not having children in your party or being in a large group will also likely endear you to those owners that are able to pick and choose to whom they let their villas!
We usually stay in the Villaverde area in the municipality of La Oliva, just in-land and about a 20-minute drive from Corralejo, which is just enough to avoid the bulk of tourists but sufficiently close to be able to make use of the amenities when we want them.
Flights & Transport
Fuerteventura only has one airport, which sits more or less in the middle of the east coast. This makes most destinations, other than the very south of the island, less than an hour's drive away.
Hiring a vehicle is pretty much essential, as the island is a 3-4 hour drive from top to bottom and the bus routes only serve the main resorts and towns, so you'll miss out on a lot if you don't have your own transport. I would recommend the local hire car company, Cicar, for the best rates and choice of vehicles. They might not always be in the best condition but they also won't quibble if you return the car with a few scrapes and scratches, which are inevitable if you find yourself off-road or travel to the southern tip of the island (more on that later).
This brings me on to my next tip, which is to hire a 4x4 vehicle if you can. My Husband once decided to take our Kia Ceed off-road into an expanse of sand (apparently the voice in his head said "What would Clarkson do...?"), where we unsurprisingly got stuck and had to be towed out by some burly spear fishermen in their Toyota Hilux. After that, we always opted for a Jeep, Land-rover or similar. If you're planning on sticking to the main roads and towns, you'll probably get away with a regular car but, if you want to see the real Fuerteventura, I would definitely recommend something a little more robust.
Things to see and do in Fuerteventura
El Cotillo (5/5)
El Cotillo is a beautiful little town, popular with surfers, on the west coast of the island. Not being one of the main resorts, it benefits from quiet beaches, beautiful lagoons, a sleepy fishing harbour and independent shops. There are also some excellent restaurants: my favourite being La Vaca Azul, which in my view has the best selection of fresh fish on the island, expertly filleted and served at the table, as well as the Bar Cafeteria Aguayre, which has a vast menu to suit all tastes. The Clean Ocean Project, a non-government organisation founded in 2002 to protect the ocean and beaches of Fuerteventura, also has a shop there, where you can buy ethically produced and sustainable souvenirs.
Museo del Queso (5/5)
The Cheese Museum, pretty much in the centre of the island, is very interesting and covers far more than just the island's history of cheese production. It also has a lovely cactus garden, which is nice to walk around, a windmill that you can go inside and a friendly resident cat! In June 2023, tickets were a very reasonable €4 per adult and an additional €3 will get you a plate of 3 local cheeses to try, with a shot of honey rum! There is also a shop, selling of course cheese, plus a wide variety of souvenirs, ranging from the usual tat to some rather nice (and expensive!) pieces of jewellery.
Corralejo (4/5)
This is probably the best known and busiest resort on the island. It has a number of bars, restaurants, souvenir shops and popular high street retailers, including Mango, Esprit, Blanc du Nil and Bershka, which can be useful if you've forgotten something or want to buy some holiday wear.
Corralejo is also very handy for supermarkets and pharmacies, should you need one. The best supermarket is probably the Supermercado Eurospar (Spar), which has its own underground car park, accessed via a very steep ramp from street level, with a lift to the shop floor. It may have since changed but, as at July 2023, you were strongly encouraged to put any personal bags in a locker, for which you need a refundable €1 coin, before proceeding into the store. This can be a minor inconvenience but understandable considering the popularity of Corralejo with tourists, who may perhaps be prone to shoplifting. I wouldn't however recommend the Supermercado Suma, just down the road from the Spar (we visited on Sunday when the Spar was closed), as it has very little in the way of fresh produce, is very strangely laid out and not at all easy to find what you're looking for! It is however useful if you happen to have broken any of the crockery or glassware in your Villa and need to replace it, as their range of tableware could probably rival Ikea!
Some of the restaurants in Corralejo are good but, in my view, not as good quality or value as those in more rural locations. If you want a cocktail on the beach, however, Waikiki is the place to go, ideally late afternoon or mid-evening to avoid the lunchtime and dinner peaks, when service can be a little slow.
It's a guilty pleasure but, despite the hustle and bustle, I quite enjoy spending an afternoon in Corralejo, just moseying around the shops and of course ending the day with a cocktail, before heading back to the Villa for a BBQ, or going for a meal at one of the more local restaurants. Like many of the resorts on the island, most of the "Brits abroad" tourists and those with young families tend to remain within the confines of their all-inclusive compounds, or at the Acua water park, so it doesn't feel too noisy; although the teenagers and young adults riding bikes and scooters up and down the cycle (and foot) paths of the main broadwalk can be a hazard.
The Sand Dunes, just outside Corralejo, are great to see but conditions (like many exposed areas on the island) can be very windy! Parking can also be difficult and there isn't a lot to do there, aside from sliding down the massive dunes, which isn't as much fun as it was in our 20s! I would recommend driving by and parking up if you can find a space, just to take some photos and take in the sheer size of the dunes, which have to be seen to be fully appreciated.
Isla de Lobos (3/5)
This is a small, barely inhabited island off the coast of Corralejo and ferries run there regularly from the port. It is interesting for a visit but there is very little in the way of shade or facilities. It is like a warmer version of Brownsea Island with a nudist beach! There is a restaurant but I believe you have to book in advance and it's always been fully booked when we've visited. If you do go, make sure you take a hat and plenty of sunscreen and check the times of the return ferries before you go. Personally, I think the best thing about Lobos is the view of it from the Waikiki bar on the beach in Corralejo!
Lanzarote (4/5)
If you are looking to take a ferry ride, some parts of Lanzarote are well worth a visit. If you go outside school holidays, you should avoid the busiest periods, but I would recommend booking online in advance if you want a guided tour of the island's only active Volcano in the Timanfaya National Park, which is an experience not to be missed. You can even enjoy some food cooked by the volcano itself at the Restaurante El Diablo. The restaurant sadly doesn't take advance bookings and is extremely popular though, so I would advise going early to ask about availability if you do want to eat there. The Casa Museo de César Manrique is also interesting if you like art or more specifically the life and work of César Manrique. It was very easy to fill a day trip, but we were glad to return to the familiarity and tranquility of Fuerteventura.
El Castillo / Caleta de Fuste (3/5 apart from the Dive Centre, which is 5/5)
Not far from the airport, Caleta de Fuste, also known as El Castillo, is another very popular part of the island and the home of its largest Barcelo resort. The resort does have its own private beach though, so the public beaches aren't as crowded as in Corralejo. The main shopping centre is however very touristy and full of bars predominantly owned by expats. It's great if you're homesick for an English Breakfast but otherwise I find it rather tacky! The perfume, jewellery and watch shops, mostly containing highly priced and/or fake designer items, are definitely to be avoided!
There is one very nice Italian themed restaurant there, La Bodeguita, but the opening hours had changed last time we visited and it wasn't open for lunch (this may since have changed again). If you do happen to be there when it's open though, it is definitely worth checking out for its extensive menu of pizzas, pastas and salads, as well as a good selection of fish and seafood dishes.
The best thing about the area and our main reason for visiting though, is the Deep Blue Dive Centre, which is the only place I would recommend learning to dive on the island. They have a dedicated area of the harbour specifically for learners, which is only about 6m deep, but still contains a great variety of fish and other sea-life, including an occasional stingray, which I saw on my last visit. They also do boat trips to guided dives at more advanced sites, ranging from 15-40m, where you can do recreational dives if you're already qualified, or train for diver certifications. They're extremely friendly and put nervous beginners at ease.
If you're up for a road trip over some pretty 'hairy' and bumpy clifftop terrain, the Jandia peninsula is a must-see. Depending on the speed of travel at which you're most "comfortable", it can take between 2-3 hours from the north of the island and obviously less if you start your journey further south. The roads don't get really rough until you come off the FV-2 after Morro Jable, at the Ctra. Punta de Jandia, where you can choose to turn back and go no further if you wish (see the map below). If you are however feeling adventurous, it's worth driving all the way down to Cofete for the best views of the 21km beaches and experience the exhilarating wind at the Mirador de Cofete. There is a small cafe there, where you can stop for a well-earned drink (non-alcoholic for the driver, who will need to navigate back to the main road!), something to eat and a comfort break, although the remote, ageing facilities are somewhat lacking in maintenance and one of the two toilets is usually out of service. They do however have some goats and other animals, which are nice to see and a good menu of typical Canarian cuisine if you're feeling up to it after the drive down.
Morro Jable (new town 2/5, old town 5/5)
The town of Morro Jable is also a good spot for lunch, although I would suggest stopping there on the way back from Cofete, rather than on the way down, if you don't fancy enduring the bumpy roads on a full stomach!
Morro Jable is very much a town of two halves. The "new town" consists of a wide, palm-tree lined boulevard, running parallel to the seafront as you enter the town from the north. This area is extremely popular with tourists and comprises very similar shops and restaurants to those in Corralejo and Caleta. If you however take the turning off the FV-2, either after the hotels along the seafront, or off the roundabout at the top of the very steep hill, you will find yourself in the old town.
It took us many visits to Morro Jable to realise it was there but the old town is a hidden gem of independent shops, cafes, bars and great restaurants. The inland part is very hilly, so be prepared for some steep climbs, but there you will find many shops, hair and nail salons and cafes, as well as a supermarket at the very top of the hill, which has toilets that the public seem welcome to use. If you prefer to avoid the inclines, you may be able to find parking closer to the seafront, where there are more bars, cafes and restaurants. Our favourite was the Laja de Morrojable, where you can sit by a window literally overlooking the sea and enjoy whole fish and traditional Canarian cuisine while watching people fall off unseaworthy inflatables. This restaurant however shouldn't be confused with the Restaurante Avenida del Mar, where we went when the Laja de Morrojable was closed, which doesn't have as good a sea view and has more mixed reviews!
Betancuria (4/5: loses a point for charging for toilets and parking!)
If the cliff-top roads down to Jandia didn't faze you then the narrow windy route to Betancuria will be a breeze, just as long as you don't encounter a bus or coach coming the other way!
The small town of Betancuria is in the middle of the west coast, on the opposite side of the island to the airport. Unusually for Fuerteventura, it is awash with leafy trees and colourful flowers and has a long history, having been founded as the capital back in 1404, which it remained until 1834. It is also the only place on the island where we have ever been charged for parking. Although there are ad-hoc free spaces dotted around the town, all signs point to the main car park, where the first you will know of the charge is when someone pops out of the hut to tell you! As at July 2023 there weren't any signs warning you of any fee as you enter and they didn't accept card payment, which is a problem if you don't carry cash. They also charge for use of the toilets.
Apart from that though, Betancuria is definitely worth a visit, if only for the delicious homemade cakes and shady tree-top terrace of the Casa Santa Maria, which also in my view serves the best coffee on the island. Just watch out for the cats that like to climb the trees and may show an interest in your food! We once managed to convince a particularly gullible friend that the rustling in the trees was made by Canarian Tree Monkeys, similar to the Apes found on Gibraltar! He was very disappointed to find out it was only a common domestic cat!
The gift shop in Betancuria also has more varied stock than the other tourist traps on the island and I got a lovely multi-coloured gecko as a memento of our most recent trip, where a gecko frequently joined us on the terrace of our villa in the evening.
Recommended Restaurants
In addition to those mentioned above, there are some great restaurants in Villaverde itself. What I find most reassuring about these is that they are frequented by local residents and Spanish speakers; the best indication there is that the dishes are of good quality and value, otherwise non-tourists wouldn't go back.
El Horno has a great range of dishes but specialise in meat and fish cooked in the local style. I can personally recommend the Iberico Secreto, which was one of the best meals I've ever had in a restaurant, even though I never usually order pork.
Mahoh is attached to the hotel of he same name, directly opposite the local supermarket in Villaverde, also offering typical Canarian cuisine (Goat, Rabbit, etc.). Ask for a paper menu to avoid the hassle of scanning the QR code (which may or may not work!) and always ask to see the specials board to make sure you're not missing out on the best dishes.
Summary
Fuerteventura is much more than a hot and sunny destination for a beach holiday. If you have a vehicle, you can explore its many different towns and villages; each with its own characteristics. There really is something to please everyone.
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