My Experience with Beta Hydroxy Acid
- 4 days ago
- 7 min read
Updated: 2 days ago
I am no stranger to anti-ageing products, as my late Mother was an Avon Rep for almost 40 years, since I was 2 and they were pretty much forced upon me as soon as I turned 20!
As much as I would never have admitted it to my dear old Mum, I was pretty sure none of them actually worked. We had one customer, recently turned 90, who still looks absolutely amazing for her age, but she always insisted she predominantly used Oli of Ulay (now known as Oil of Olay) and mostly purchased Avon's other products!
I tried the under-eye creams, the serums, the day creams, the night creams, you name it, I've used it; but I never really found anything that I thought "wow, that actually does what it said it was going to do!"... until now.
Even while using it for the past 2 weeks, I didn't really think it was working, until I compared my "before" and "after" photos this morning. The results surprised me so much that I felt compelled to write this post the very same day, even though it's a Friday evening and I could be having a G&T!
So what is this "wonder product", you might ask (ok, the title was a bit of a spoiler). In short, it's BHA, or Beta Hydroxy Acid.
Disclaimer: the opinions in this blog post are entirely my own and based on my personal experience of using the products mentioned. Other than my Mother having been an Avon Representative for 40 years, I do not have any association with Avon and am not and have never been a Representative myself, nor do I have any association with any of the other brands mentioned in this article. I have not and will not receive any inducement or endorsement for writing this article.
So, what Is Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)?
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) is a type of acid used in skincare primarily for exfoliation. The most common BHA is salicylic acid, derived from willow bark.
What is the difference between Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids?
AHAs
According to Medical News Today (written by Jessica Caporuscio, PharmD and medically reviewed by Reema Patel, MPA, PA-C, published 23 April 2021):
"Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) include glycolic, citric, malic, tartaric and lactic acids. These are weak acids that may improve the appearance of the skin and are often found in skin peels to treat acne, scars, melasma (brown or grey patches of skin), hyperpigmentation (patches of darker skin), roughness, age spots and seborrhoea (rash with red itchy spots and white scales)... AHAs work by reducing the concentration of calcium ions in the skin. This promotes the shedding of skin cells at the surface."
AHAs are known to be more aggressive than BHAs and therefore more likely to cause skin irritation and increased risk of sunburn following sun exposure (Source: Tang SC, Yang JH. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. 2018 Apr 10;23(4):863. doi: 10.3390/molecules23040863. PMID: 29642579; PMCID: PMC6017965.).
BHAs
Unlike AHAs. which work on the skin’s surface, BHAs penetrate deeper into pores because they are oil-soluble, making them especially effective for oily and acne-prone skin.
They also don't seem to carry the same warnings about sun exposure and are considered "safe as used when formulated to avoid irritation and when formulated to avoid increased sun sensitivity."
That said, I would always advocate wearing SPF 30-50 when out in the summer months and definitely when using any AHA or BHA products, as the research still seems a little inconclusive.
My experience with Beta Hydroxy Acid
I applied Avon's ANEW BHA Anti-Dark Spot Serum to my face every morning and evening and the targeted Anti-Dark Spot Treatment (containing both AHAs and BHAs) to particular areas of concern, in the evenings only, as per the instructions, for 2 weeks.
On top of the serum, in the morning, I used my existing Nivea Anti-Dark Spot UV Face Fluid with SPF 50, but I should add that I've been using the same Nivea cream daily for the past 5 years and never noticed any difference to my existing dark spots; only the prevention of new ones, no doubt from the SPF 50, which is why I chose to keep using it instead of the SPF 30 that comes with the Trio.
The ANEW serum did feel quite pleasant to apply and went on very easily. It isn't at all greasy or shiny and was absorbed quickly. A little also goes a long way. 2 pumps of the bottle was more than adequate to cover my face with a good layer.
The targeted Anti-Dark Spot Treatment had a slightly thinner consistency and felt a bit like you should shake it first but, since it's in a tube, shaking it didn't make much difference. It also seemed a bit surplus to requirements, in addition to the serum, but I haven't yet tried using it without, so it could be that it made all the difference.
As indicated in the instructions, I only applied the targeted treatment in the evenings because the leaflet does say it can make you more sensitive to sun exposure and to always use a good SPF sunscreen after using it. This does make me a bit wary of using it in summer and I may switch to just using the serum, when I go on holiday, just to be on the safe side (and to see if the effect continues without the targeted treatment). I also followed it up with the SPF 50 day cream and wore Heliocare 360 Gel Oil-Free SPF50 foundation when out in the sun, but both products are part of my typical summer skincare routine and have been for many years.
What happened after I used Beta Hydroxy Acid for 2 weeks?
Ok, so now I feel like I've built this up a bit too much.
While the results are noticeable, the really dark age-spot on my right cheek is definitely still there, but it is a lot paler and much easier to cover with concealer. The redness of the pores around it is also noticeably reduced.
Where I really saw the difference was on my left cheek, where the pores are much less inflamed and visible.
How does it compare with other products I've tried?
As mentioned earlier, I have tried products from Nivea's anti-dark spot range and I didn't find that they reduced the appearance of any existing pigmentation. I do believe they stopped it getting worse and the SPF 50 in the day fluid almost certainly prevented new age-spots from developing, but they didn't have the same effect as the BHA products.
A few years ago, I also tried Eucerin's Anti-Pigment Dual Serum and although it had a very pleasant scent and texture, I didn't notice any visible improvement in my skin's appearance.
Safe use of BHA Products
Now for the science. Using BHA products correctly is essential to avoid irritation and even damage to your skin. Here are some pointers from The Internet:
Start slow
Begin with a low concentration (around 1-2%) and use it 2-3 times a week.
Patch test
Apply a small amount on your inner arm to check for sensitivity before full use.
Apply on clean, dry skin
Use after cleansing and before moisturizing.
Use sunscreen daily
BHAs can increase skin sensitivity to the sun, so apply broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher.
Avoid mixing with certain ingredients
Do not combine BHAs with retinoids or other acids without consulting a dermatologist.
Listen to your skin
If you experience excessive redness, peeling, or discomfort, reduce frequency or stop use.
Who Should Use BHA Products?
BHAs are ideal for people with:
Oily or combination skin
Acne-prone skin with blackheads or whiteheads
Enlarged pores
Rough or uneven skin texture
Mild to moderate acne
People with very dry or sensitive skin should use BHAs cautiously and consider consulting a dermatologist before starting.
Tips for Incorporating BHA into Your Routine
Use BHA products in the evening to avoid sun sensitivity.
Follow with a moisturiser containing SPF 30-50 to maintain skin hydration and sun protection.
Avoid over-exfoliating by combining BHAs with gentle cleansers and avoiding physical scrubs.
Monitor your skin’s response and adjust usage accordingly.
My final Thoughts on Beta Hydroxy Acid Products
My experience of using these BHA products was very positive and it will be interesting to see if continued use brings about any further improvements.
Unlike a lot of anti-ageing and facial products, they don't seem particularly overpriced. The Avon ANEW BHA Trio is currently on offer for £27 for the 3 items (normal RRP £45)*. In April, I paid £14 for the serum (30ml) and £10 for the targeted treatment (15ml)*. In my opinion, this makes them much better value than some more expensive, non-hydroxy products, which I haven't found to be as effective, such as Eucerin's Anti-Pigment Dual Serum, ranging from £16.99 on eBay to nearly £30 on Amazon for 30ml.
My only worry about using them is the chance of increased risk of sun damage, which the cynic in me fears cosmetics companies may use to increase demand for the product among the uninitiated (like migraine medications that may cause headaches!). If this is a concern for you, I would recommend trying the product only in the winter months, or always using a day cream or make-up containing SPF 50 and reapplying it regularly if you're out in the sun.
Based on my personal experience, I would say BHAs are effective, inexpensive and therefore a bit of a no-brainer for people like me, with combination skin, prone to redness, inflamed pores and age spots and I have noticed a difference in the pigmentation and texture of my skin after 2 weeks' use.
*All prices correct at time of publishing (May 2026) unless otherwise stated.
Comments